Gwalior is a city in Madhya Pradesh, India, lying 122 kilometres (76 mi) south ofAgra, and 423 kilometres (263 mi) north of Bhopal, the state capital. Gwalior occupies a strategic location in theGird region of India, and the city and its fortress have served as the center of several of historic northern Indian kingdoms. Gwalior is the administrative headquarters of Gwalior district and Gwalior division.
It is famous for Gwalior Fort, which has changed hands many times. From the Tomaras in the 8th century, it passed to the Mughals, then the Marathas under the Scindias (1754).
The city has several important educational institutions, including the Atal Bihari Vajpayee - Indian Institute of Information Technology and Management, Indian Institute of Tourism and Travel Management, Scindia School, Madhav Institute of Technology and Science, Laxmibai National Institute of Physical Education. Gwalior has five government universities: Jiwaji University, Maharaja Maan Singh Tomar music and arts university, Rajmata Vijyarahe Scindia agricultural university, Laxmibai National University of Physical Education and ABV-IIITM government universities. A few private institutions are also well known in this region, such as Aditya College, ITM University, Amity University, and others.
Gwalior can be seen as the headquarters of the Chambal Region and it is surrounded by industrial and commercial zones of neighboring districts (Malanpur - Bhind, Banmor - Morena) at all three main directions. Gwalior is the fourth largest city of Madhya Pradesh and is often referred to as the tourist capital of the state. Gwalior was the capital of Madhya Bharat (1947–1956) before the creation of the Madhya Pradesh state.
Origin of name
According to local tradition, Gwalior owes its name to a sage of former times. Suraj Sen, a prince of the Kachhwaha clan of the eighth century, is said to have lost his way in the jungle. On a secluded hill, he met an old man, the sage Gwalipa, whose influence almost took him by surprise. Upon asking the sage for some drinking water, he was led to a pond; the waters not only quenched his thirst but cured him of leprosy. Out of gratefulness, the prince wished to offer the sage something in return, and the sage asked him to build a wall on the hill in order to protect the other sages from wild animals which often disturbed theiryagnas (or pujas). Suraj Sen later built a palace inside the fort, which was named "Gwalior" after the sage; eventually the city that grew around the fort took the same name.
History
Gwalior may have been held by the Guptas or some of their disciples, but the oldest historical evidence shows the fort was conquered by the Hunas in the early sixth century. The evidence for this is a stone inscription of the time of Mihirakula recording the construction of a temple to the sun god. It is now in India Museum, Calcutta. Subsequently, Gwalior was taken by Gurjar Pratihars of Kannauj. From inscription found such as Rakhetra stone inscription, scholars assert that Gwalior was under the possession of Gurjara Pratiharas until at least 942 AD.
The Scindia state of Gwalior became a major regional power in the second half of the 18th century and figured prominently in the three Anglo-Maratha Wars. (Gwalior first fell to the British in 1780.) The Scindias held significant power over many of the Rajput states, and conquered the state of Ajmer. During the Indian Rebellion of 1857 the city was briefly held by rebel forces in 1858 until they were defeated by the British. The Scindia family ruled Gwalior until India's independence from the United Kingdom in 1947, when the Maharaja Jivajirao Scindia acceded to the Government of India. Gwalior was merged with a number of other princely states to become the new Indian state of Madhya Bharat. George Jivajirao served as the state's rajpramukh, or appointed governor, from 28 May 1948 to 31 October 1956, when Madhya Bharat was merged into Madhya Pradesh.
Demographics
As of 2011 India census, Gwalior has a population of 1,053,505. Males constitute 53% of the population and females 47%. Gwalior has an average literacy rate of 85.20%, higher than the national average of 74%: male literacy is 90.85%, and female literacy is 78.82%. In Gwalior, 13% of the population is under 6 years of age.
Jai Vilas Palace in Lashkar is a marvelous palace museum, part of which is open to the public and gives a glimpse into the life of the royal family. The fort area is also home of the Scindia School, a well-regarded institution founded by the late Maratha Maharaja Madhavraoji Shinde of Gwalior in 1897.
Gurudwara Data Bandi
Gwalior Gharana
Origin of name
According to local tradition, Gwalior owes its name to a sage of former times. Suraj Sen, a prince of the Kachhwaha clan of the eighth century, is said to have lost his way in the jungle. On a secluded hill, he met an old man, the sage Gwalipa, whose influence almost took him by surprise. Upon asking the sage for some drinking water, he was led to a pond; the waters not only quenched his thirst but cured him of leprosy. Out of gratefulness, the prince wished to offer the sage something in return, and the sage asked him to build a wall on the hill in order to protect the other sages from wild animals which often disturbed theiryagnas (or pujas). Suraj Sen later built a palace inside the fort, which was named "Gwalior" after the sage; eventually the city that grew around the fort took the same name.
History
Gwalior may have been held by the Guptas or some of their disciples, but the oldest historical evidence shows the fort was conquered by the Hunas in the early sixth century. The evidence for this is a stone inscription of the time of Mihirakula recording the construction of a temple to the sun god. It is now in India Museum, Calcutta. Subsequently, Gwalior was taken by Gurjar Pratihars of Kannauj. From inscription found such as Rakhetra stone inscription, scholars assert that Gwalior was under the possession of Gurjara Pratiharas until at least 942 AD.
In the 10th century, after Gurjara Pratiharas, Gwalior was taken by the Kachwaha Rajputs. Qutb-ud-din Aybak captured the city in 1196. Shamsud-din Altamshtook control of the area in 1232. By the 15th century the city had a noted singing school which was attended by Tansen. Gwalior was ruled by the Mughals and then the Marathas.
Scindia state of GwaliorThe Scindia state of Gwalior became a major regional power in the second half of the 18th century and figured prominently in the three Anglo-Maratha Wars. (Gwalior first fell to the British in 1780.) The Scindias held significant power over many of the Rajput states, and conquered the state of Ajmer. During the Indian Rebellion of 1857 the city was briefly held by rebel forces in 1858 until they were defeated by the British. The Scindia family ruled Gwalior until India's independence from the United Kingdom in 1947, when the Maharaja Jivajirao Scindia acceded to the Government of India. Gwalior was merged with a number of other princely states to become the new Indian state of Madhya Bharat. George Jivajirao served as the state's rajpramukh, or appointed governor, from 28 May 1948 to 31 October 1956, when Madhya Bharat was merged into Madhya Pradesh.
Scindia is a Maratha clan in India. This clan included rulers of the Gwalior State in the 18th and 19th centuries, collaborators of the colonial British government during the 19th and the 20th centuries until India became independent, as well as politicians in independent India.
In 1962, Rajmata Vijayraje Scindia, the widow of Maharaja Jiwajirao, was elected to the Lok Sabha, beginning the family's career in electoral politics. She was first a member of the Congress Party, and later became an influential member of the Bharatiya Janata Party.
Demographics
As of 2011 India census, Gwalior has a population of 1,053,505. Males constitute 53% of the population and females 47%. Gwalior has an average literacy rate of 85.20%, higher than the national average of 74%: male literacy is 90.85%, and female literacy is 78.82%. In Gwalior, 13% of the population is under 6 years of age.
Geography
Gwalior is located in northern Madhya Pradesh 300 km (186 miles) from Delhi. It has an average elevation of 197 metres (646 feet).
ClimateGwalior has a sub-tropical climate with hot summers from late March to early July, the humid monsoon season from late June to early October, and a cool dry winter from early November to late February. Under Köppen's climate classificationthe city has a humid subtropical climate. The highest recorded temperature was 48 °C and the lowest was −1 °C.
Summers start in late March, and along with other cities like Nagpur and Delhi, are among the hottest in India and the world. Temperatures peak in May and June with daily averages being around 33–35 °C (93–95 °F), and end in late June with the onset of the monsoon. Gwalior receives 970 mm (39 in) of rain every year, most of which is concentrated in the monsoon months from late June to early October. August is the wettest month with about 310 mm (12 in) of rain. Winter in Gwalior starts in late October, and is generally very mild with daily temperatures averaging in the 14–16 °C (58–62 °F) range, and mostly dry and sunny conditions. January is the coldest month with average lows in the 5–7 °C range (40–45 °F) and occasional cold snaps that plummet temperatures to close to freezing.
Gwalior can be visited from late October to early March without much discomfort, but the months from April to June should be avoided due to the extreme heat. The monsoon months see sustained, torrential rainfall and risk of disease, and should also generally be avoided.
Citrus fruits are grown here using irrigation methods.
Gwalior Fort
At the heart of Gwalior is Gwalior Fort, improved by Raja Man Singh Tomar where a previous structure existed, of the Tomar dynasty. This formidable structure was reputed to be one of the most structurally sound forts of India. It occupies an isolated rock outcrop. The hill is steepened to make it virtually unscalable and is surrounded by high walls which enclose buildings from several periods. The old town of Gwalior lies at the eastern base of the fortress. Lashkar, formerly a separate town that originated as a military camp, lies to the south, and Morar, also a formerly separate town, lies to the east. Gwalior, Lashkar and Morar are presently part of the Gwalior Municipality.
The massive Gwalior Fort, popularly called "the Gibraltar of India", overlooks the city. The Emperor Babur reputedly described it as "the pearl in the necklace of the forts of Hind". This fort's architecture is unique. It displays a Chinese influence on Indian architecture, as Chinese dragons have been crafted at the hilt of the pillars. This influence was due to trade between China and India during the fort's period of construction.
After the death of Sher Shah Suri in 1545, who was ruling North India at that time, his son Islam Shah shifted his capital from Delhi to Gwalior and constructed 'Sher Shah Mandir' or Palace/Fort in the memory of his father Sher Shah Suri. Islam Shah operated from Gwalior until his death in 1553. Islam Shah had appointed the Hindu warrior 'Hemu' or Hem Chandra Vikramaditya as his Prime Minister in Sher Shah Fort for the first time, who later on became the Hem Chandra Vikramaditya king at Delhi and established 'Hindu Raj' in North India, by virtue of winning 22 battles continuously from Punjab to Bengal and defeatingAkbar's army in Agra and Delhi on 6 October 1556.
In the east of the city are two magnificent examples of early Mughal architecture: the mausoleum of the 16th century Sufi Saint Ghous Mohammed and the tomb of Mian Tansen, a great singer and one of the 'Nine Jewels' of the Mughal Emperor Akbar's court. Right next to them is the Gujari Mahal, built by Gujjar King Man Singh Tomar on demand of his consort Gujar princess "Mrignayani" (meaning "having eyes like deer"). The Mughal Emperor Akbar is also known to have organized hunting parties near Gwalior.
Close to the heart of the city is splendid Jai Vilas Palace, patterned on the palace of Versailles; it combines Tuscan, Italian and Corinthian styles of architecture.
Rich in cultural heritage and architectural marvels, Gwalior has the added advantage of its proximity to Agra, the city of the Taj Mahal; Khajuraho, the city of great temples; and Delhi, the national capital.
Historically and architecturally, Gwalior is interesting first as a very ancient seat of Jain worship; second for its example of palace architecture of the best Hinduperiod (1486–1516); and third as an historic fortress. Many historical places are found near the Dabra-Bhitarwar Road. Prior to the founding of Gwalior, the region was also known by its ancient name of Gopasetra. The great Apabhramsha poet Pandit Raighu lived in Gwalior. Gwalior had an institutional seat of theBhattarakas of Kashtha Sangh and later Mula Sangh.
Jai Vilas Palace in Lashkar is a marvelous palace museum, part of which is open to the public and gives a glimpse into the life of the royal family. The fort area is also home of the Scindia School, a well-regarded institution founded by the late Maratha Maharaja Madhavraoji Shinde of Gwalior in 1897.
According to history, the original fort of Gwalior was founded by the Bargujar Kings during the 34th/35th century of Kali yuga as per puranas available with them. His palace is the most interesting example of early Hindu work of its class in India. Another palace of even greater extent was added to this in 1516. The Mughal emperors, Jahangir and Shah Jahan, added palaces to these two, the whole making a group of edifices unequaled for picturesqueness and interest by anything of their class in central India. Among the apartments in the palace was the celebrated chamber, named the Baradari, supported on 12 columns, and 45 ft (15 m) square, with a stone roof, forming one of the most beautiful palace-halls in the world. It was, besides, singularly interesting from the expedients to which the Hindu architect was forced to resort to imitate the vaults of the Muslims. Of the buildings, however, which so excited the admiration of the first Mughal emperor Babur, probably little now remains.
Teli kā Mandir
The Telikā Mandir, or 'oil-man's temple', owes its name to Teli, a term for an oil grinder or oil dealer. Many suggestions have been put forward to explain this name historically, but in fact the name is not old, the temple being used for processing oil before the British occupied the fort and used the building, albeit temporarily, as a coffee shop. The Telikā Mandir is the loftiest temple among all the buildings in Gwalior Fort with a height of about 30m. The temple consists of a garba griha, that is, sanctum proper for the deity, and an antarala to enter into the temple. It can be approached by a flight of steps provided on the eastern side. The most striking feature of the temple is the wagon-vaulted roof, a form used over rectangular shrines which normally accommodated a row of Mother Goddesses. The goddesses from the interior vanished centuries ago and have not been traced, even in fragments. The exterior walls of the temple are richly decorated with sculptures, many of which are damaged; the niches, shaped like temples, are empty. The building carries a dedicatory inscription to the goddess in a niche on the southern side, but otherwise does not have any history. The architectural style, discussed by a number of architectural historians, points to a date in the late 8th Century. The building was erected just as the Gurjara Pratihāras were asserting their power over central India. The entrance gateway on the eastern side is a later addition of the British period, made by Major Keith in 1881. It was built as a way of saving various historic pillars and other pieces no longer in their original context.
Jain rock-cut sculptures
A striking part of the Jain remains at Gwalior is a series of caves or rock-cut sculptures, excavated in the rock on all sides, and numbering nearly a hundred, great and small. Most of them are mere niches to hold statues, though some are cells that may have been originally intended for residences. According to inscriptions, they were all excavated within a short period of about thirty-three years, between 1441 and 1474. One of the colossal figures is 57 ft (17 m) high, taller than any other in northern India.Gurudwara Data Bandi
Gwalior Fort also has the Gurudwara Data Bandi, built in the memory of the sixth Sikh, Guru Har Gobind. This Gurudwara is particularly large and grand, built entirely of marble with coloured glass decorating the main building. Recital of the Guru Granth Sahib creates a peaceful and sacred atmosphere. Mughal kings used to visit Gwalior regularly. During the Sikh genocide of 1984, many Sikhs were burned alive here. There is a Gurdwara that was converted to a mandir of "kalli devi" and process is on to take it back by Sikhs.
Revolt of 1857
Gwalior is also known for its participation in the 1857 revolt, mainly due to Rani Lakshmibai's involvement. After Kalpi (Jhansi) fell into the hands of the British on 24 May 1858, Lakshmibai sought shelter at Gwalior Fort. The Maharaja of Gwalior was not willing to give up his fort without a fight as he was a nominal ally of the British, but after negotiations, his troops capitulated and the rebels took possession of the fort. The British wasted no time in attacking Gercest, the bloodiest battle ever fought on Indian soil. Indian forces numbered around 20,000, and British forces around 1600. Lakshmibai's example is remembered to this day by Indian nationalists. She died fighting, and Gwalior was captured. Tatya Tope and Rao Sahib escaped. Tantya Tope was later captured and hanged in April 1859.
Art and culture
Gwalior is a well acknowledged place of art, associated with historic as well as contemporary evidence. In August 2005 a mural created by Aasutosh Panigrahiand five other artists was acknowledged as the World's Largest Indoor Mural by Guinness World Records.
Marathi Sahitya Sammelan, the conference on Marathi Literature were held once in Gwalior City. It was presided by President of the Conference writerKusumavati Deshpande (and wife of Kavi Anil) in 1961. She was the first female president of the annual Sammelan since its inception in 1878.
Culturally Gwalior is the confluence of two rich cultures Bundeli and Braj. Bundelkhand covers Gwalior, Bhind, Morena, Sagar, Shivpuri, Guna, Sheopur and adjoining areas.
Music
Gwalior is also known as the City of Music. Tansen, born in Behat, trained in music at Vrindavan, served Raja Ramchandra Waghela of Bandhawgarh, then went to Agra under the patronage of Akbar. After the death of Tansen in Fatehpur Sikri and cremation in Agra, his ashes were buried in Gwalior. Tansen Samaroh is held every year in Gwalior. Sarod Maestro Ustad Amjad Ali Khan is also from the royal city of Gwalior. His grandfather Ghulam Ali Khan Bangash became a court musician in Gwalior.
Gwalior holds an unparalleled reputation in Sangeet. Baijnath Prasad (alias Baiju Bawra) was a classical singer (Dhrupadiya) who lived in Gwalior for his whole life under the patronage of Man Singh. Baiju was born in Chanderi and was cremated there. He received his musical training in Brindaban under Swami Guru Haridas Ji. He was the court musician of Gwalior along with Nayak Charju, Bakshu, and others.
Gwalior Gharana
The Gwalior Gharana is one of the oldest Khayal Gharanas and one to which most classical Indian musicians can trace the origin of their style. The rise of the Gwalior Gharana started with the reign of the great Mughal emperor Akbar (1542–1605). The favorite singers of this patron of the arts, such as Miyan Tansen, first amongst the vocalists at the court, came from the town of Gwalior. Gwalior has an important role in the journey of music in India, so much that every year, the Tansen Festival is celebrated at the tomb of Tansen in Gwalior.
Dhrupad
Dhrupad (Hindi: ध्रुपद) is a vocal genre in Hindustani classical music, said to be the oldest still in use in that musical tradition. Its name is derived from the words "dhruva" (fixed) and "pada" (words). The term may denote both the verse form of the poetry and the style in which it is sung. Raja Man Singh Tomar, the King of Gwalior between 1486-1516 AD, was a patron of Dhrupad.
Tansen Sangeet Samaroh
The famous Tansen Sangeet Samaroh, or the Tansen Music Festival, is celebrated every year on the Tansen Tomb in Gwalior. Tansen Samaroh is a platform where artists from all over India gather and participate to deliver vocal and instrumental performances. Gwalior's environment during the festival turns mystical with melodious music echoing. Music lovers from far and wide make it a point to be a part of this event at any cost, as it’s a memorable experience for them. The Tansen Sangeet Samaroh is organized by the government of MP, in association with the Academy of the department of culture in MP. During the festival, music lovers and artists from all over the world gather to offer their bit of tribute to the all-time music Maestro Tansen. To date, this festival has the honor of being the only musical show in Gwalior that takes place on multiple days and nights. The academy offers honors to senior celebrities and junior artists by including them in the Samaroh through their music of performance. Tansen was a legendary singer of Akbar’s mughal court. Tansen, a legendary exponent of the Hindustani classical music's dhrupad style, was counted among the Nine Jewels of the Royal Court. In remembrance of this exemplary artist there is a tomb constructed in Gwalior called the Tansen Tomb. This is where the Tansen Music Festival or the Tansen Samaroh is organized every year. This annual music festival started in the 1930s. The passage of time has only glorified the status of this annual historic event. At present, renowned artists from all over the country come to perform and exhibit their excellence while in turn mesmerizing the audience. The venue Gwalior has retained Indian traditions and the wealth of music intact over the years. The famous Gwalior Gharana of music is actually inspired by the Tansen style of music. In all, the four-day musical extravaganza called Tansen Samaroh is an audio as well as visual treat, seeing the exemplary and renowned music expertise in artists all over India dedicating their bit of honor to the greatest ever musical mentor, Tansen. The Tansen Music Festival, or Tansen Samaroh, is held every year in the month of December. The experience of melodious music with the chilling weather of autumn makes it an ecstatic festival.